Transcribed by Janette West Grimes
April 9, 1953
* CAL'S COLUMN *
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On last Thursday morning about nine o'clock, ye editor, his wife and
son and daughter-in-law, Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence gregory, and their son, Tommie,
left Lafayette by car for Fort Belvoir, Virginia, to visit our son, Charles E.
Gregory, who is in training at that camp which is only about a dozen miles from
Washington, D. C. We carried with us a boiled ham, some fried peach pies of the
halfmoon variety; and a lot of other eats for the trip.
We had not seen our son since
February 18th when he walked out of the print shop with, "I'll be seeing
you, daddy," and was gone. I had a feeling that he was afraid to prolong
his farewell beyond the brief words as above given, perhaps fearing that he
would break down. It had been quite a long time since his old dad had seen his
baby son, who had volunteered for service. We grieved much over his absence,
often visiting his room that seemed so dreary and empty without his presence.
He had always been from babyhood full of life and laughter, and was the
"life" of the printing office
force. He was full of pranks and jokes and had a lot of fun in
"pulling" things even on his dad.
We left Lafayette for a
journey of about 1,500 miles, and drove steadily toward our destination. Down
Goose Creek we traveled at a fast clip, turned east into Smith County, crossed
the waters of lower Dixon's Creek on which stream the writer was born nearly 62
years ago. Thence we went through Dixon Springs, our first town or village to
ever visit, thence through our native county seat town of Carthage, across the
Cumberland there and thence to the long ridge which leads westward off the
Highland Rim by way of Chestnut Mound. On we went to Cookeville, just east of
which place we made our first stop. Eastward, ever eastward, we continue on our
way, climbing to the Cumberland Plateau not far from Monterey. Then for many miles we traveled on the Plateau,
going from "Walden's Ridge, "going down from "Alden's Ridge,
just below Rockwood. We turned our course northeastward, through the valley of
the Tennessee River. A few miles out of Kingston, we stopped at one of the
roadside tables and ate our first meal "on the road." We were soon on
the way and reached Knoxville about the middle of the afternoon, driving right
through this large city and on up the Holston Valley towards Rogersville, one
of the oldest towns in Tennessee. We left Tennessee in the middle of the double
town of Bristol, Tennessee-Virginia, divided only by a street. We soon reached
Wytheville, in Wythe County, Virginia. It should have been stated that we had
our second meal of the trip on the banks of the Holston between Rogersville and
Bristol. We then proceeded before putting up for the night.
We had seen already a great
deal of rough, rugged mountain terrain, much of which appears strange to those
not familiar with the slant of the rocks in the east part of the Cumberland
Mountains and in practically all the Blue Ridge Mountains. There we find the
rocks, not in fairly level layers, as here in Middle Tennessee in most places,
although there are here in places strata of rocks that are on a slope. In the
section above referred to, on both sides of the valleys, the rocks are almost
uniformly set at an angle halfway between horizontal and vertical or an angle
of about 45 degrees. For hundreds of miles north and south and east and west,
these mountains are set in this odd manner. In the beds of small rivers, the
same sort of strata is to be seen, as well as in firlds an forests; and most
prominently shown in the huge blocks of stone that protrude down the sides of
the mountains. Mosst of the rock appears to be limestone, although in some
places there are slanting slabs of sandstone. Roadways cut through this stone,
in some places many feet in length, show this same peculiar slope of about 45 degrees
from the upright. These millions of acres of stone all have the same general
slope, from the southeast toward the northwest.
How far they extend westward
through Cumberland Mountains we do not know; but they do not reach to the
western limits of the mountains. So somewhere between Walden's Ridge and the
western foothill region of the Cumberland Mountains, the sloping form comes to
an end.We would judge that the end of the sloping layers of rocks in the
Cumberlands is reached perhaps 20 miles west of the eastermost edge or
escarpment, Walden's Ridge. We see but little sign of the sloping nature of the
rock layers at Ozone Falls, which is some distance east of Crab Orchard.
Up the French Broad River
which comes out of North Carolina, the jagged edges of the rocks are noticeable
even to the very water's edge. It seems unusual to see a stream that has
apparently cut its way "across the grain," right through hundreds and
hundreds of feet of stone, all set at an angle of about 45 degrees.
Just what causes this is
unknown, although, geologists suppose that at some far distant time in the
past, there was some sort of a mighty upheaval of the mountainous terrain; or
else on the side of the lower slope, a dreadful "dropdown" involving
hundreds of thousands of square miles of Southern Appalachian Mountains and the
valleys lying between ranges. Surely there must have been an earthquake or
earthquakes of such a nature as we have not had on earth since man has been
here. All these things are beyond the feeble mind of man, and we pause and gaze
upon the mighty works of God whose ways are past finding out. Truly we stand in
awe of the Power great enough to pitch the mountains as a man might pitch hay.
We resume our story of
visiting the editor's son. We passed through one Virginia town after another.
About ten o'clock we came to Salem, Virginia, and decided to spend the night
there. We had a good bed, splendid accommodations, hot and cold water, at a
fair price. We found at Salem an old-fashioned wagon of the variety said to
have been used by the pioneers in their early travels from Virginia to the
country that lay to the southwest. This was a rather small wagon, fairly high
wheels and builded for use with a yoke of oxen. It had a bed or body that
somehow reminded one of a small boat or canoe with the rear end quite a bit
higher than the front. We thought of the pioneers that crowded their families
into these covered wagons, of the plodding cattle that pulled them, of the
creaking of the wagon that rumbled slowly westward, of the owner who went ahead
of the laboring oxen, of those who drove the sheep, hogs and other animals that
would be needed in the pioneer home soon to be established in the West, as all
the lands west of the Blue Ridge were originally called. We thought of all the
bravery required by pioneer mothers in taking their infant in her arms, riding
in the old covered wagons mile after mile and day after day, slowly but surely
going toward the setting sun in search for new and fresher lands, and for
better opportunities for their children. A whole vista of our imagination
opened up as we contemplated the wagon caravans of that day and time. We
thought of all the dangers incident to this sort of travel, of the raging
streams to be forded, of the rivers to be ferred across, of the fear and dread
of the sworn enemies of the white people, the Indians. But we have to come back
to the present again and forget the past for the time being.
We had difficulty in finding
out just when we had crossed the divide between the waters that flow westward
to the Mississippi and those that flow eastward in the Chesapeake Bay and the
Atlantic. In fact we did not find out with any measure of certainty just where
this transition takes place. We did learn that on leaving the watershed of the
Holston River which is a tributary of the Tennessee River, that we were for a
time on the watershed of the New River which rises in North Carolina, flows
generally in a northwesterly direction and passed through of near Radford,
Kentucky, near which place the New River joined by the Little River. The two
rivers are called the New River onward to the northwest into West Virginia,
which State is entered by the combined rivers near Lyn, Va. Later the New River
is joined by the Gauley River from the North and the stream becomes the Kanawha
River, which empties into the Ohio River, at Point Pleasant. At this place in
1774 the Indians are said to have put up the strongest, and most sustained
battle they ever fought in all the history of the conflicts between the Indians
and the whites. In this they were finally defeated.
The Kanawha River from its
source to its mouth is approximately 450 miles long. Charleston, West Virginia,
is the largest city on the entire stream. We had no idea that the section of
Virginia through which we were passing on Thursday night included a part of the
watershed of the Kanawha River, until we were informed of this fact by some
party who knew more of the geography of the Dominion State than did the writer.
It should be added that the
change-over from the Tennessee River watershed was so gradual that a stranger
passing through Virginia between Marion and Wytheville, by car wouldn't have
dreamed that he was at the head of two streams and that without a huge barrier
or mountain. Generally, in a country as mountainous as the western part of
Virginia is, there is a mountain between the waters that flow in two different
directions and into two different rivers or streams. Here in our own county of
Macon, the dividing line between the waters that flow northward to the Ohio is
the highest part of the Highland Rim. In Lafayette it runs just back of the
editor's home, as well as the homes of many of our people. However, the town of
Lafayette may said to beon the Ohio watershed. The dividing line in Lafayette
begins near the cheese plant, thence through to the south of the Fred Pipkin
home, to the south of the A. L. West home, the Dr. Thurman home, turns somewhat
to the south there and leaves all the houses on the Red Boiling Springs Road,
as far as the (Mrs.) W. S. Goodman home, on the waters of the Ohio. But the
Jimmie Tucker home is on the watershed of the Cumberland.
But going "back to
Virginia," we find that the Kanawha River watershed in Virginia is not
very large, extending over the counties of Wythe, Pulaski, Montgomery and part
of Roanoke, so far the route we took to reach Washington is concerned. In
Roanoke County, Virginia, we strike another watershed, one that was also like
that previously crossed in our trip northeastward, with no big hill or mountain
as the bound between the two. The next watershed as one goes to the northeast
is that of the Roanoke River, which flows generally southeastward until it
enters North Carolina and finally makes its way to the sea.
The next stream one finds in
his travels to the northeast is that of the upper reaches of the Shenandoah
River, which occupies a long and fertile stretch of land with mountains on both
sides. The Shenandoah empties into the Potomac River at or near Harper's Ferry,
quite a distance above Washington D. C. If one followed the valley to its lower
end, and then traveled on to the capital city of our nation, he would find that
he was many miles out of the way. So a road across the mountain from the
Shenandoah Valley has been constructed, leaving the valley at New Market,
crossing the mountain and into the valley of the South Fork of the Shenandoah River. In this valley are the famous
Luray Caves. After remaining in this valley for a comparatively short distance
the highway crosses another mountain range into Rappahannock County. Here th
estreams are a part of the Rappahannock River system. There are no more
mountains in this part of Virginia. Although the sloping rocks of the
Appalachians are still to be seen, they do not rise to mountainous heights.
Quite a lot of our people are
descended from former residents of the valleys of Virginia. The Willis family
of this county are descendants of a man of the same name who lived long ago in
the Shenandoah Valley, who owned a huge plantation and had a big home called
Pilgrim's Rest. We have seen pictures of this home as well as the coat of arms
of the family. Willis was well to do and was a member of that group sometimes
called "The First Families of Virginia."
Another family in the same
vicinity in the long ago was that of the Fuquas. They left Bedford County,
which is in the upper part of the Shenandoah Valley more than a hundred years
ago and settled near the present New Harmony. Gus Fuqua, the father of our
preacher brother, Elder N. Fuqua, was born on March 4, 1844, near Liberty,
Bedford County, Virginia. Bedford , the county seat, is about 29 miles from
Roanoke through which we passed early Friday morning, after having spent
Thursday night in Salem, as above set forth. Caleb Fuqua, the father, of Gus,
left Virginia, about 105 years ago. We have additional information on the Fuqua
family if any reader is interested in this particular group.
About 42 miles southeast of Roanoke is Chatham, county seat of
Pittsylvania County, Va. From this county came the Witchers, of our own county,
the Gammon, the Goad, the Brawner, and other families. We are not quite sure,
but we believe the Shrums of our own county were originally from Pittsylvania
County. These two counties are to the east or southeast of the mountains and
are in the better farming regions of Virginia.
When we left Roanoke, Va., on
Friday morning, we were only about 15 miles from Fincastle, the county seat of
Botetourt County, Va., in which county one of our great-great-grandfathers,
Leonard Ballou, was born April 4, 1767. He came to Sumner County in 1795, and
lived for a time on Dixon's Creek. He died near Pleasant Shade on Aug. 4, 1840.
He was one of the charter members of our church, Mt. Tabor, established in
1836. The writer is now pastor of this congregation to which our old
great-great-grandfather belonged in the years that are gone forever.
We hope that our readers will
bear patiently with us as we continue this narrative next week.